How To: Fix Kanger EVOD leaking/gurgling issues

UPDATE: This apparently works equally well with the Kanger Protank, and other Kanger BCCs with the silicone caps on the atomizer heads. If you’re having issues with those leaking or gurgling, you may want to give this a shot.

A while back I ordered a couple of Kanger EVODs because I wanted something slim for my on the go kit, and the Protank mini was not yet available (I now have two on their way to me).

I’d heard nothing but good things about them, and figured that since they can use the same heads as the Protank, I’d only have to keep one type of head on hand.

They are a great vape. Until they leak/gurgle.

At first I thought it was because I was vaping in +100F temperatures, but even in my 72F house, once I got below about 1/2 a tank the gurgling would start. Then the leaking starts.

Ok look, a quarter ml of juice sitting on top of my battery. Lovely.

At first I thought the problem was with the head. I swapped out the head with a new one from a different package. No dice, exact same problem.

I looked at the bottom of the unit, and the leak was coming through the bottom of the positive contact pin. That precludes the base to head fit being the issue (since the area where they mate was pretty dry).

I thought, well maybe I just got a defective unit. These things are mass produced in China after all, it happens. I tried the other unopened EVOD. Same result. Grrr.

So I took to the internets.

Didn’t really find anything. I found a couple of people complaining about leaking, and others having no issues at all. I deduce from the number of posts I found where people are warning about gurgling after half empty (and saying that just topping off fixes it), that this is a common problem.

I saw multiple comments saying that the juice level dropping below a certain point breaks the vacuum in the tank and causes the gurgling (I also experienced what I would call flooding). I know a little bit about fluid dynamics, and while it sounds good in theory, I’m not convinced that this is the problem. See the fact that there is a hole running through the bottom of the atomizer head into the unsealed battery connection kind of precludes a true vacuum from being present, it’s more of a surface tension effect at that point (but that’s kind of nitpicking). Still, with the viscosity of the juice, and the wick sitting across the top of the hole, and the size of the hole, it should work.

So I disassembled one.

click to enlarge

click to enlarge

I was sure that either the wick or the press fit between the base and the chimney was the culprit.

When I pulled the chimney off, I thought I had found the culprit. The “flavor wicks” that are set on top of the wick with the coil on it in these things are tiny! It was like two little strands of wick, not even an entire wick.

So I looked in my box of parts, and decided to replace the flavor wicks with a single piece of 2.5mm silica (I wanted to use 2mm, but I didn’t have any).

I trimmed the wick to fit, rinsed the whole thing off, filled the EVOD, and put everything back together.

Holy hell the vapor production improved ten fold! Well ok, that certainly had an effect, but did it fix the leak? It took me a while to get low enough in the tank to find out (if I had some 0mg nicotine juice I could have got there much quicker, but all I have is 24mg and 12mg at the moment). I got a hint of a gurgle, and then a mouth full of juice. Took the head off, and now there is like 3/4 of a ml of juice sitting on top of the battery.

Well it did much improve the juice intake.

So I took it all apart again. This time I paid very close attention to the press fit of the chimney and the base. It was pretty dry. I was thinking about the silicone cap and why it would be there. At first I thought it was there to seal the press fit, but looking at the press fit and how hard it is to pull the chimney off I don’t think that is it’s sole purpose. I think it is to seal the connection between the chimney and the stem inside the EVOD as well.

So I took a pair of tweezers and stuffed the cap on the stem inside the EVOD (it was essentially sitting upside down in relation to how it sits on the stem.

The ‘cup’ portion of the cap had to stretch a little bit to fit over the stem. Hmm. I wonder if the cap is just not thick enough to seal the gap between the bottom of the stem and the top of the atomizer head?

click to enlarge

click to enlarge

So I flipped it over on the head. It looks like this:

click to enlarge

click to enlarge

It doesn’t cover the press fit between the atomizer head and the base like this, but I have a back up plan if this doesn’t work.

I filled the EVOD up and installed the head with the silicone cap upside down, being careful to seat the cap over the stem in the top of the EVOD before screwing it down all the way.

I went through an entire tank, down to where I could taste the wick drying out from lack of juice. No leak. It did gurgle a little bit, but I’m pretty sure that is because I let too much condensation build up inside the tip (I was vaping with my mouth only and just immediately blowing it out as fast as I could because I wanted to get it down to where it should gurgle and flood.

NOTE: I used the head that I had replaced the flavor wick with 2.5mm silica for these tests. That may have an impact on the results. I plan to do this with all my EVOD heads as the increased vapor production is great, but I will test it on the next one without doing so first. If that changes the results, I will note that here.

So why does this work?

My theory is that the silicone cap isn’t there to cover the press fit at all (the press fit is tight enough that it’s not going to leak from there). It is there to seal the gap between the chimney and the stem on the inside of the EVOD.

As I mentioned earlier, these things are mass produced in China, and due to the fairly intricate nature of the design and the small size, it is reasonable to assume that the stem on the inside of the top of the EVOD is machined a bit shorter than it should be to ensure a good fit with a bit of ‘wiggle room’ so to speak) for variance in manufacturing tolerance between it and the heads/bases.

Just flipping the silicone cap worked for one of my EVODs, but did not work for the other (apparently the stem is just a hair too short on that one. Time to try out plan B from my earlier experiment. You are going to need an extra silicone cap for this. I took one from a spare head, but I will start saving the reusable parts from heads in the future:

click to enlarge

click to enlarge

Now take that second cap and put it on the head upside down. It’ll look something like this:

click to enlarge

click to enlarge

Time to fill her up and try it again.

I was able to get the base screwed down almost all the way (don’t force it or you risk breaking the top of the EVOD). Mine had just a hairsbreadth of a gap between the base and the top piece, plenty of room for the silicone o-ring inside the base to seal it up nice and tight.

Worked perfectly. No gurgles, no flooding (this time I wiped down the tip with a napkin when the condensation got built up), no leaking.

This is an easy fix; Kanger needs to make the top of this silicon cap just a hair thicker. Or maybe make the ‘cup’ part double sided. Either should work and is a really cheap solution to this occasional problem.

If I could not have gotten this fixed, I would never buy another EVOD, and this post would have been a review of the EVOD telling people not to waste their money.

As it stands, I’m ok with it. The EVOD works fantastically after this simple modification, and even better with the larger flavor wick.

end

112 thoughts on “How To: Fix Kanger EVOD leaking/gurgling issues

  1. I use 100% cotton to replace my wicks and my coils keep getting thinner to the point it is worthless to even try any more, is there any advice you can give,i am using the anytank mini davide, also sometimes when i chane to a new head i get a metal taste in my vape any thoughts.

    • I bought what looked like a mini protank 2 (was not 100% sure it was but every vape place I went to said it was) and the replacement coil was a little thinner than the ones they had in stock, even the place I got it from. The threading fit fine into the base but the “chimney” (or part the they are putting the extra silicone cap on in this article) needed to be a little thinner than “Standard”
      I ended up breaking that one some how and bought the Pro-Tank 2 and got this gurgling and juice disappearing faster than in the mini-tank. This fix seems to work great so far.

      I did get a metal taste in that mini-pro-tank 2 and I thin you just need to make sure that once you put a new coil in, you let the juice soak into the “Wick” for a few minutes or Suck through it like you are hitting it but with out activating the coil, so it gets juice in it before it heats up…

  2. LOVE YOU!!! after buying a protank mini with $20 i didn’t really have to spend I was SO mad when it gurgled..did the simple double silicone thing and SO much better. I also cover 2/3 airholes with my finger when i first hit and lift one finger mid draw and i can actually taste the FLAVOR of the liquid now… /THANKS BUNCHES!!!!!!!!!! ps I’ve been fiddling with this since i bought it yesterday UGH lol

  3. The second cap worked perfectly for my Protank 2. Was about to throw it away after one week it went to gurgle hell. Now it is an amazing smoke better than when I first got it. I noticed as well the coils come in a rubber cover and you can cut down the covers and place over the cap instead of using the second cap.

  4. oh my god thank you for this it worked perfectly mine to was flooding like a tsunami but thanks to you i fixed it thanks a lot and vape on

  5. I sell/use this junk. The problem is with the positive contact pin. For some reason there is an issue with the threads not matching up. It leaves an impure connection where the contact pin meets the battery, allowing it to leak therefore creating that puddle and a gurgle when you inhale. I switched out the entire base of my e-Vod unit and inserted an MT3S conversion base (http://www.myvaporstore.com/MT3_to_MT3S_Conversion_Base_p/krmt3s-cb.htm) and no gurgle, problem solved. Thats also not my website so this isnt an add or anything.

  6. Pingback: Kanger ProTank3 Insane Leaking

  7. Great to read this, I have had my protank 2 mini for 24 hours and after seeing the amount of liquid that has leaked out, put the CE5 back on.

    Have just took the silicone off the second coil. Will give it a try after the battery is charged.

  8. Thanks for this advise. I just had this problem with 2 tanks and I haven’t had to flip my cap yet but just tightened it more and it stopped leaking. I have a feeling I’ll be doing some cap flipping in the future though. At nearly $1/ml, it was getting really frustrating.

  9. Thanks for info – another possible problem is the replacement coil unit. I showed the store what I had and they sold me the Kanger 5 pack but gave me the wrong one – the 2.5 ohm instead of the original 1.5 or maybe 1.8 ohm. I added the second silicone ring but had to up the variable battery voltage to the middle (purple color) setting and now it works ok. the higher ohm coil on athe lowest setting was not vaporizing the liquid enough.

  10. Dude! Straight up genius. Man, this is working like a charm so far. Really appreciate you for sharing this great and easy fix.

  11. So I did something stupid, the two cap method worked fine for me, but the second cap got stuck on the inside and I can’t get it out, anyone have any thoughts on how to fix this?

  12. Thank you! I recently purchased two mini protank 2s and a T3S, and the T3S and one protank kept doing this. It was driving me crazy! I thought I had replaced my gaskets incorrectly or something, but nothing seemed obvious as to where the problem was originating. The double silicone cup trick totally worked! Also, I tried Taryn’s suggestion below and plugged two of the intake holes on the draw, and it really improved the taste of the liquid.

  13. Thanks for this. I didn’t have a spare silicone cap (I only bought 1 evod to try it out), so used an old silicone cap from a v2 or 10motives cart which I had lying around (10 motives are a uk brand). I cut the edges off completely making a flat disc, then cut a small diamond in the middle by folding it and cutting two tiny diagonals in the centre if the disc with scissors (fiddly but effective). The extra layer of silicone has given a tighter seal and – hey pesto no more gurgling.

    Thanks again,

  14. Worked perfect on my protank2, no hairline gap either! thank you so much, i will tell the guys at my local vape store about this. Thanks again!

  15. I went another route. I saw a clip on YouTube, where the author added flavor strips to avoid the liquid from overflowing–to plug the holes, so to speak. I didn’t have any flavor strips, so I used strips of cotton rolled from a Q Tip. I rolled the cotton strips to about 1/32″ and clipped the ends of each added cotton strip (very important step). I had to add three cotton strips before overflowing of the strip stopped. This fix has lasted several days and, so far, so good–no gurgling and no liquid in my mouth.

  16. I have to say, I was having issues with my Protank 3, gurgling and flooding, and generally splashing liquid in my mouth. This fix has made it run amazingly smooth and clean. Thanks for the great fix!

  17. Okay it works but what if you break the top rubber seal? When I tried to get it out the tweezers slipped and shoved the rubber piece all the way up towards the top and now its stuck. So what do you do when that happens???

    • That’s a rough gig. Personally, I’d probably either live with the reduced tank capacity, or get another EVOD (it’s only a couple bucks). If you really wanted to get that sucker out though, you could probably use a torch and some pliers to straighten out a fish hook, and then jab the barbed end through the silicone and drag it back out.

  18. I had the same problem, with the leaking.. but rather then take my atomizers apart and replace parts, I just took a pliable O ring (can be purchased at most piercing places for 25-50 cents, a 10 gauge works best) and slipped it over the stem end of the atomizer, screwed it back in (takes a bit of pressure, but not much) and it hasn’t leaked since, even using the tank to bone dry.

  19. Pathetic hey. After 24hrs with a protank II mini I’m pretty certain that kanger will not get another cent out of me. They’ve had three versions to get right what other companies seem to have no trouble doing.

  20. I was having this problem with my new protank mini 3. I didn’t have a spare atomizer, so I tried just flipping the cap upside down. Definitely seems to fix the gurgling/leaking (a few microdrops on the battery terminal, I can live with it), however, I notice the draw seems to be a bit tighter. Still a step up, but was wondering if anyone else has had this issue? The PT mini 3 is a dual-coil, so I’m wondering if that has anything to do with it…

  21. I need to give this a try (I’m at work atm). Thanks for this article, it gives me hope! I have the same problem as you, for the past 2 months I get gurgling issues that never go away until I replace the atomizer/coil assembly. Sometimes I get no problems and sometimes I get problems right off the bat with a new atomizer. My wife and other friends never have the problem I do! My wife bought me a Kanger AeroTank since I was having problems with the EVOD tank but I’m getting the same problem with the new Kanger tank too and it’s a completely different design. I waste more juice than I actually vape because of this problem. I realized the Kanger AeroTank and EVOD use the same type of atomizer assembly so that must be what the issue is. I don’t know why I’m the only one of the people I know that has this relentless problem, seems very hit or miss and it defies logic. All I know at this point is, it’s definitely something with the atomizer/coil and not the tank. I’m going to try this ASAP. I got so frustrated that I stomped one of my ecigs last night, I regret it today but goddamn I need my nicotine fix and am tired of this problem wasting all my juice while denying me a successful vape. Thanks for this article!

  22. Sir, i took the circle rubber(second from the bottom) from my old atomizer and place it right under the top cap of the new one.
    As the wick got squezeed, the flavor got better, no more leak, less liquid refilling, and the liquid doesnt turn yelowish as fast as it used to be.

    (sorry for my limited english vocab)

  23. Omg!!!! Thx…. I been trying to give up cigs 3 times switching over to e cigs but failed cuz of leaking on everything I use….. was about to give up on the pro tank 2 with an aero bottom instead…. works like a charm!!! Used the double silicone method. .. woot!!!!!

  24. Wow, so easy a fix for something that’s such a problem. I bought a PT2 yesterday, and after literally messing with it for hours trying to stop the gurgling and spitting, this is what finally did it for me. I broke the thing down multiple times, cleaning it, checking seals, refilling, wasted a brand new bottle of liquid, replacing wicks, trying every other fix on the net. This in combination with larger cotton wicks finally fixed it for me. Now I can actually use the damn thing. Bravo sir.

  25. Dammnnnn…..i almost throw my protank II. I tried this trick and it workkksss !!! i love my protank II now…lol…

    THANK YOUUUUUUUUUU broooooo.

  26. My wife has one too, with the same issue. I opened it up completely, and noticed the other wire from the coil was broken. Had to completely tear it apart, pick a coil from my old ecig clearo that had a crack in the tank (different model so couldnt just switch the parts), unwrap the coil, take polyfil from an old pillow, wrap the coil around it and install it in kanger… on first try had both ends of the coil grounded, but on second try i got it working. Works perfectly now but you need to be quite handy. My point here is that there was nothing wrong with the rubber sealings, but with the coil as Rocco atleast pointed out.

    • well, Rocco pointed out its a problem with contactors, but anyways, not with the rubber sealing. Nothing wrong with that fix if it helps, but it doesnt fix the actual reason behind the malfunction.

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